996/Boxster Window Problems Part II
Awhile back I had written a post about window drop issues in the boxster/996. A few weeks ago I had a Boxster come in for an oil change, and a window that was not functioning properly. The driver window would not drop at all, from the inside door handle, or the outside door handle. To me, this said that the microswitch on the latch mechanism always thought the door was closed. So I ordered a new latch. Today I knocked it out.
Time to get to work. Plenty of room to get the door open fully.
Door panel needs to come off.
Once off, carefully peel back the foam cover on the door.
Once the foam is out of the way (I usually just tape it to the window to keep it held back), you can remove the metal plate in the way and disconnect the electrical connector.
Before you go any further, plug in your new unit. The window should immediately drop once you plug it in. If it does not make a sound, you have a different issue. Plugged it in, heard (heard being the key word here) the window drop, thought, sweet.
Pulled the old unit out, swapped over the two pull connectors, and we were good to go…..or were we.
Going back together. Now at this point (Experience coming into play here), I decide to close the door to make sure the window lines up and operates properly. What I discovered, was while the window was dropping, it was only dropping about 1/8″ which is not enough. Crap.
So this adds a new element into our Boxster/996 window saga. The window regulator!
If your window drops when you open the car, but only slightly, try pushing down on the top of the window with the door open. If you can push it down another 1/8-1/4″ or so, that means your regulator line has slack in it and needs to be replaced. Essentially, the motor will travel a few teeth to drop the window the needed distance. If there is slack in the cable, part of that motor movement just takes up the slack, which doesn’t move the window at all. How does the cable get slack? I haven’t really been able to figure it out. Sometimes the green centering clips on the cables crack and fall apart, other times it appears as if the cable itself has stretched.
So the old regulator out, and the new regulator put in. Luckily the part was in town, so it wasn’t a big deal since I was in there. Very odd to have a window issues with 2 culprits. Did closing the door with the window fully up for a period of time stress the cable of the regulator? Hard to say.
So, lets review what we know:
So some failure modes:
1. Door glass does not drop when opening the door from the inside: Culprit–inner door handle microswitch
2. Door glass does not drop when opening the door from the outside: Culprit–outer door handle microswitch
3. Door glass goes back up when you release the either door handle, making it very difficult to close the door with the glass all the way up, OR the window does not drop from either the inside AND the outside door handles: Culprit–door latch mechanism microswitch
4. Both door glass windows do not drop when operating the convertible top: Culprit–Convertible top latch microswitch
and a new one:
5. If the window only drops a little bit, push down on the window to see if it will travel another 1/8-1/4″ before stopping. If it does, the window regulator is bad.